Quick reference

What size lite fits this door?

It varies — by leaf construction, by door width, by the hardware going in, and by whether the opening is rated. Here is the part that can be answered in advance, drawn to scale, so you know before you draw it.

A planning guide, not an approval. Everything here is the border a leaf typically needs and the reasoning behind it. The final size on any opening is the manufacturer’s to approve, and we always defer to their current documentation at drawing approval — including on anything rated, where the glazed area is set by that specific door’s listing rather than by any general rule. Use this to plan; let us confirm it before it is drawn.

Lite sizing tool

Pick the leaf. See what it takes.

Change the door and the drawing changes with it. The dashed outline is the largest cutout that leaf will accept once the solid border is held; the shaded panel is the glass you picked.

Door type
Fire-rated opening?
Door elevation showing the vision lite and the solid border around it 0"0"0"0"HINGELOCK

Drawn to scale · 3'0" × 6'8" leaf

Fits typical margins

Largest cutout this leaf takes
Your glass size
Solid border held

Why the answer moves

Four things decide it.

  • How wide the leaf is

    The border is fixed, so every inch of door width you lose comes straight off the glass — twice, once at each edge. This is why a lite that is routine on a 3′0" door is impossible on a 2′8" one.

  • What the hardware needs

    A lock case needs a solid stile to sit in, and an exit device needs more room than a plain lockset. The lock edge is almost always the tighter of the two vertical borders, and it is the one people forget.

  • Whether the opening is rated

    A rated leaf is a tested assembly. The glazed area it will carry is stated in that specific door’s listing, and it is normally well inside what the leaf could take structurally. This is the single biggest reason a size that looks fine on paper comes back rejected.

  • What else is in the leaf

    A louver, a second lite, or a wide bottom rail for a sweep all compete for the same slab. Two cutouts in one leaf also need a solid buffer between them, which is easy to miss until the shop drawing comes back.

Reference

The solid border, by leaf type.

Typical minimums. Individual manufacturers publish their own and some differ — where a job is tight, we will pull the figure for the door you are actually buying.

Architectural wood — flush, solid core

A flush wood leaf carries its strength in the stiles and rails around the core. Cut into that band and the leaf loses the material the hinges screw into and the lock case sits in, so the border stays solid.

Typical minimum solid border for Architectural wood — flush, solid core
Hinge edge 5″
Lock edge 5″
Clear of the lock prep 5″
Top rail 5″
Bottom rail 10″
Between two lites 3″

Commercial hollow metal — steel

A hollow-metal leaf is a steel skin over internal channels and reinforcements. The border has to clear those channels — which is why the numbers run an inch or so wider than wood, and why the bottom needs room for the bottom channel.

Typical minimum solid border for Commercial hollow metal — steel
Hinge edge 6″
Lock edge 6″
Clear of the lock prep 6″
Top rail 6″
Bottom rail 10″
Between two lites 5″

One more to keep in view: where a lite exists so people can actually see through it, barrier-free requirements set a maximum height for the bottom edge of the glass. It rarely bites on a normal lite, but it does on a small high viewport — worth checking early rather than at approval.

Before anyone reaches for a saw

Order it prepped. Do not cut it on site.

A rated door is a tested assembly, and the label belongs to the door as it was built. Cutting a lite or a louver opening into a rated leaf in the field voids that label — and it is discovered at inspection, after the opening is hung and the schedule has no room left.

Glazed openings in a rated leaf have to be prepped at the factory, or by a shop carrying a certified label service that can re-label the door afterwards. There is no version of this that a jobsite jigsaw or a torch makes acceptable, and filling an unwanted hole with body filler or wood putty is not a repair either.

Some small preparations are permitted in the field and some are categorically not, and the line between them is narrower than most people assume. If a change is needed after the door is on site, ask before it is made — that call takes a minute and it is considerably cheaper than a replacement leaf.

tam@atlanticentry.ca (902) 956-1012

The lines behind a glazed opening

Every part of a glazed opening, one call.

A lite is not one product. The leaf, the frame that finishes the cutout and the glass inside it are separate listings from separate factories — which is precisely where openings come apart. Each of these is a line we partner with, and their current documentation is the authority on sizing.

Send us the opening and we will confirm the lite before it is drawn.

Tell us the leaf, the hardware and whether it is rated. We will come back with what that manufacturer will actually cut, from their current documentation — not a general rule.

(902) 956-1012 tam@atlanticentry.ca